News
12/29/2002 - Top 10 Restaurants
RESTAURANTS: Andre's French Restaurant dwells in obscurity, but deserves spotlight
By HEIDI KNAPP RINELLA
REVIEW-JOURNAL
My, but we do have an embarrassment of riches in the Las Vegas Valley. We find ourselves with an ever-increasing supply of truly fine restaurants -- restaurants that could thrive in even the most sophisticated dining capitals of this or most any other country.
And all that excellence from the fine-dining spots transcends to the tiers that come after. More top-notch restaurants mean more chefs demanding the freshest produce, seafood and meats, as well as somewhat obscure, even newly developed foodstuffs from the various regions of this country and all over the world.
Naming the 10 best restaurants is a difficult task for any restaurant critic. There are so many excellent restaurants in Las Vegas today, I could easily name many more that are truly worthy. And, like most people, the restaurant I'll visit on a given evening -- a given evening when I'm not "on duty," that is -- depends on what sort of food I'm in the mood for, what type of service I crave and how much money is in my pocket. People who ask me casually to name my favorite restaurant are likely to get in response, "that depends ..."
But the assignment is to formulate a Top 10 list, and formulate it I have.
1. Andre's French Restaurant, 401 S. Sixth St. -- I put Andre's in the same group with Picasso and Renoir, excellent restaurants all. One major difference is that while the latter two tend to get top national honors, Andre Rochat and his employees at the original downtown restaurant and Andre's at the Monte Carlo, 3770 Las Vegas Blvd. South, and Alize at the Palms, 4321 W. Flamingo Road, dwell in relative obscurity. They deserve much more of the spotlight for knowing just how to mix classics such as duck confit with edgier offerings such as warm yellow plum and pignoli tartlette.
2. Picasso, Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South -- Executive chef Julian Serrano is always testing the limits of his creativity but never finding them. Picasso was off the Mobil five-star list this year but retained its five AAA diamonds, and it deserves top plaudits from any organization.
3. Renoir, The Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. South -- Alessandro Stratta is at the helm of Renoir, and he's had to suffer the same awards nonsense this year. But with such boundless innovation at work -- and a nod to the classics of the kitchen -- it doesn't get any better than this.
4. Rosemary's Restaurant, 8125 W. Sahara Ave. (and Rosemary's at the Rio, 3700 W. Flamingo Road) -- To fully appreciate the regional delights that come out of Wendy and Michael Jordan's kitchen, all you have to do is try the Hugo's Texas Barbeque Shrimp with Maytag blue cheese slaw. Paradise on a plate.
5. Lawry's the Prime Rib, 4043 Howard Hughes Parkway -- The menu's limited -- prime rib is pretty much it -- but consistency is the key, as well as top-grade beef, crisp Yorkshire pudding and waitresses whose demeanor matches their retro uniforms.
6. Little Buddha, the Palms, 4321 W. Flamingo Road -- The interior of Little Buddha is exotic, but it's the food -- and at fairly reasonable prices, to boot -- that makes things truly interesting, with such items as crispy spun tiger shrimp with coconut-basil sauce.
7. rumjungle, Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South -- rumjungle is so well-known as a club for the hiperatti, it's a surprise to many that there's a good solid restaurant in there as well -- Brazilian Fire Pit if you're so inclined, or a la carte if you're not.
8. Bonjour Casual French Restaurant, 8878 S. Eastern Ave. -- Bernard and Marie Calatayud keep the atmosphere casual -- which ought to reassure those intimidated by French restaurants -- but there's plenty of ambition when it comes to the food.
9. Tsunami Asian Grill, Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South -- A sense of fun results in food that's both offbeat and tasty, such as the sushi infusion shootinis, which are more beverage than food.
10. Wild Sage Cafe, 600 E. Warm Springs Road -- Tucked away in a fairly obscure spot, Wild Sage proves that location isn't everything, but that fine food and prompt service are.